Trip Diary
Day 1 - The start
I don’t know whether it's because I’m getting older, but the English winters are getting longer. It wouldn't be too bad if we had snow and a very definitive season, but they don’t tend to be nowadays. Instead, it's grey, cold, dark, short on daylight, and as we've seen this winter, daily rain! It's depressing and February, although supposed to be the shortest month, feels like the longest to me!
Anyway, as always, we keep buggering on and wait for those longer, warmer days.
Well today is the day! March 3rd! Today I’m flying off to Ljubljana in Slovenia to be reunited with my mate, my Royal Enfield Meteor! (Marg) She's been in storage in Ljubljana since November, so I’m off to burst her free and set off exploring the highways and Byways of Eastern Europe and the Baltic states together!
3am rise from my slumber (not that I've had much) to get ready for my 6.10am flight from Manchester.
Elaine and the boys (Milo & Romeo) dropped me off and after a hearty (and expensive) breakfast at the airport, I was boarding and fast asleep before we took off. I woke with what I thought was turbulence but in fact was us landing in Ljubljana!
The taxi I booked, of course didn’t show up, so after a coffee and a half hour wait, just in case, I flagged a taxi to take me to pick up my bike.
The bike was out front ready for me and after packing my kit in the panniers, I sorted fuel and tyre pressure.
Next stop the hotel to dump everything and head out to get re-acquainted with my motorbike.
A fabulous lady who used to work in my office before she retired, told me of when she went to Lake Bled, which is close to Ljubljana, over 50 years ago when Tito the dictator was still in power. So, this afternoon I headed out to Lake Bled. It did not disappoint! A picture postcard location with the beautiful placid lake with Bled Castle perched high on the cliff overlooking the lake and the Church of the Assumption, located on the central island. This is famous for the 99 steps up to the bell, which can be rung by those visiting. On the day of my visit, boats were not sailing (thankfully) to Central island, so I couldn't climb the 99 steps and report back to Pam! Nevertheless, it was well worth the trip and beauty, especially from the high up pub which I found to admire the view.
Back to the hotel and sort out my kit. Dinner and bed ready for the ride tomorrow to Graz in Austria
Day 2 - 200km drive to Graz, Austria
Today I left Ljubljana to head to Austria, specifically Graz. The weather was glorious and the shortish trip was uneventful.
I first visited Austria and Germany over 40 years ago, where I found both countries to be immaculate in presentation, clean and beautifully kept. A couple of years ago on my way to Norway, I visited Germany. I was quite shocked at the difference from 40 years earlier. Dirty, lots of graffiti, unkempt and social issues, clear for all to see. It was a sad reflection of what it was. Yes, the architecture and beauty of old buildings and street scenes are still there, but the very soul of the cities were lost and not the same.
Graz, was very similar to German cities of today, which was disappointing.
Nevertheless, I spent the afternoon exploring the city, which wasn’t unpleasant.
The tunnel ( the Schlossberg tunnel) that was dug into the hill over looking the city, to protect the citizens from allied bombings during WW2, now houses the longest indoor slide in the world at 170m! There is also an indoor train which takes tours around the tunnel, and for the elderly, infirm and for people like me, a lift which takes you to the viewing platform up top! The view from the top over looks the whole city and stretches to seeing the Schockl Mountain beyond.
The famous 13th Century clock tower in Graz is called the Uhrturm. It is famous for its large clock faces on the medieval tower, where the hands on the clock have reverse roles. The large hands show the hours and the short hands the minutes. The Old Town of Graz is pleasant with trams and lovely architecture. I would recommend a day in Graz if you are in the area but it’s a place I class as ‘been there and got the tee shirt’ type of place, and one I probably won’t visit a second time.
I did find a superb restaurant which served seafood soup, which was divine!
Day 3 - 270km drive
The plan today was to drive to Bratislava in Slovakia and spend the afternoon exploring.
Unfortunately, at just shy of 30km from the Austrian/Slovakian border where I had a blow out on my rear tyre! Luckily the tricky situation was handled (but it did shake me up) and I managed to stop safely on the side of the road. The tyre was completely mashed and beyond repair. I called Royal Enfield roadside assist, who organised a tow truck to take me to the nearest town of Parndorf, 4 hours later and just as the workshop was about to close!
The only thing to do was check into a hotel and find a bar as the rest of the day was a right off and perhaps much of tomorrow morning waiting for the new tyre too.
Day 4 - 235km ride - Budapest, Hungary via Bratislava, Slovakia
The brilliant guy who runs WS-Motorradtechnik had the new tyre fitted and the bike ready for collection at 10am. This meant that instead of going straight to Budapest in Hungary, I could pop over to Bratislava in Slovakia for lunch and have a few hours exploring Bratislava. I would be back on track by dinner time!
Bratislava didn’t disappoint! In fact, it was a pleasant surprise!
Whilst I spent several hours in the Old Town with its marvellous whimsical statues, there are great views of the Bratislava Castle whose fortification overlooks the town centre. The Art Nouveau Blue Church is also worth a visit.
Disappointingly, mid afternoon I bade farewell to Bratislava. I would recommend Bratislava for a weekend visit.
The trip down to Budapest was straightforward and I arrived at my hotel just before dark. Parked the bike, dumped my kit at the hotel. Dinner in a superb Italian restaurant, then bed.
Day 5 - day off riding and touring Budapest
There is much written in the history books about the Jewish Budapest Ghetto during WW2. Seeing the history for yourself firsthand, is not just humbling and emotional, but frightening that this happened just 20 years before my life began.
The several hours I spent visiting, seeing, and remembering today, is a mere Nano second of an insight into the pain, misery and suffering of over a half a million human beings during humanities darkest hours. A place where everyone should witness, so their suffering should never be forgotten.
There are several memorials around Budapest but perhaps the most humbling are the ‘shoes’ left on the side of the Danube river, where Jews were ordered to remove their shoes (quite valuable in the day) before being shot to death and their bodies fallen into the Danube river.
There are many other memorials and sights around Budapest which have a happier history. Non-more beautiful than the stunning Parliament building on the banks of the Danube. It has to be amongst the more stunning Parliaments in the world.
The other thing you have to try whilst in Hungary is the original Hungarian Goulash! It really is good!
Every city in the world has its own history, but not every city in the world, allows the visitor to see so much of the history. Many cities have lost the visual aspect of their history, lost due to a variety of reasons (war, redevelopment etc) but Budapest is one of those cities where you can see, feel and experience its history in the monuments, sights and museums.
Definitely worth a stay for everyone to experience. Great bars and restaurants too. Would highly recommend a visit for at least a weekend,
Day 6 - 314km ride to Timisoara, Romania
The ride down to Timisoara was uneventful with really pleasant weather.
Timisoara is a quaint but funny type of place. A huge educational city with 6 universities where the main part of the city revolves around Victory Square - named after when Timisoara was freed from Communism in 1989 after a revolution in the city.
With the Opera & Ballet House at one end of the square and the imposing Orthodox Cathedral at the other, whilst it is an imposing space, it has lost much of its original history due to wars and demolition over the decades. The original fortifications of the square were demolished in 1910.
Not particularly a place I would return to, it did have some pleasant bars and restaurants. Would I recommend a visit to Romania’s fifth largest city – Probably not. I think there are many other cities in this part of the world which are much more appealing.
Day 7 - 162km ride to Belgrade, Serbia
Just a short ride today through lovely country roads to arrive around lunchtime in Belgrade.
Belgrade has an interesting and chequered history of war, invasions and conquering with its modern-day history being no exception. Marshall Tito ran the country after WW2 as the renewed Yugoslavia and was determined to transform Belgrade into a powerful, new, progressive and lively city to show how great the country was becoming. The Parliament building of course is stunning, as are most around the world, with clear evidence of brutalist, communist architecture still abounding the city. Some of the highlights are the Genex Tower, Palace of Serbia, Novi Beograd Town Hall and even the local Police Station. None of them disappoint if you like Communist Era Brutalist Architecture. If, however, you are a traditionalist, then the Belgrade Fortress (amongst others) is a must.
I had a great afternoon exploring this interesting city which had a few little quirks! Secure car parks do not allow motorbikes! Luckily the lady at the hotel allowed me to use her own private lock up (at €30 for the night) and if I’m being totally honest, I didn’t find the general population, ‘overly friendly’. I felt safe enough, just they seemed quite aggressive.
Food and bars were good.
Worth the visit, but probably not a return
Day 8 - 297km ride to Sarajevo in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Today the riding went up several notches! The Dinaric Alps are just magnificent for riding! Windy roads, hair pin bends and snow-capped peaks, even though it was 17 degrees outside! A blissful 6-hour ride exploring the wonderful scenery of rivers, mountains, limestone cliffs, tunnels and breathtaking views. Every riders’ dream! It really was my best day riding so far that was exhilarating.
Sarajevo has had one of the saddest histories in modern times, with the city under seize for almost 4 years during the Bosnian war, suffering losses estimated of around 100,000 people, suffering constant shelling, genocide and starvation.
It is also the place where Archduke Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914 which triggered the start of WW1.
Despite its gruelling recent history, I found Sarajevo to be vibrant, lovely, welcoming and a really pleasant place to visit. Surrounded by the mountains and hills, the meandering Miljacka River flows through the centre with some beautiful mosques, churches and fabulous old town.
Would highly recommend at least one visit during one’s life.
Day 9 - 230km ride to Podgorica, Montenegro
I thought yesterday was exhilarating, but today, was a 7-hour ride off the scale! The scenery in the depths of the Dinaric Alps, truly is magnificent. By far the best ride of the trip and although it took me 7 hours, the numerous stops to savour the magnificence of the scenery, was worth every minute extra the trip took. Montenegro, for bike riders, is superb! If you are ever in Montenegro on a motorbike, you won’t regret the scenery and magnificence of the natural beauty of the Alps.
Podgorica on the other hand, was very disappointing indeed! Bland and boring as a city with the Old Town non-existent and the horrid 1970’s concrete architecture an ugly slur on a magnificently beautiful country. Food however was very good and the people very friendly.
I wouldn’t recommend a visit to Podgorica, however if you get your hands on a motorbike in the vicinity, the Alps are magnificent!
Day 10 - Day off but visit friends in Prisoja, Andrijevica 170km round trip
It never ceases to amaze me that, no matter how many places you visit from around the world, you always meet people from, or with, ties to the Calder Valley (My home in Yorkshire).
A few days ago, I was contacted by a wonderful lady called Nat Clegg who co-owns Porcus Ltd in Todmorden (In the Calder Valley). A great farm, which makes the best sausages ever! But I digress! Anyway, I’ve known Nat and SJ for years and have taken up some of their issues when I was working, so it was a no brainier, when Nat asked me to pop up to see her parents who live in Montenegro.
Tanja & Vovo live in such a beautiful spot, high up on a mountain side with the most exquisite of views, over looking vallies and snow-capped peaks in the mountains.
Ukrainian by birth, they fled the latest war in Ukrainian to the safety of the Dinaric Alps with very little. Their wonderful home has been renovated by the two of them, well into their 70s, where they work the land to grow their own vegetables, raise chickens and care for their animals. Vegetables are used to barter and also feeding themselves, where food to them, is showing love. To say I was in a food Coma when I left is an understatement and although they didn’t speak a word of English (nor me Ukrainian) we had a wonderful afternoon conversing in other ways. The local Head Teacher popped by with his family to meet me and he spoke impeccable English.
It was such a wonderful day and one I shall always remember for Tanja & Vovo’s warmth, hospitality and love they showed. Really lovely and humbling. Treasured memories.
Day 11 - 157km to Tiranë, Albania
The ride down to Tiranë was straight forward and nowhere near as exciting as Montenegro. The road down to Tiranë, over the border to Albania, is largely on a plateau close to the coast. A single, fairly heavily used, congested road, with high peaks further inland.
Tiranë is one of life’s wonderful surprises. Modern, dynamic and with a unique collision of old and new. It is relatively cheap compared to Northern Europe, great food and definitely worth a visit.
Much of Tirane’s authentic architecture was built in its Fascist period when Albania’s government all moved to Tiranë. Skenderbej Square, the government buildings and the entire Deshmoret e Kombit Boulevard is perhaps the most beautiful area of the city.
The Pyramid of Tiranë is an excellent spot to get a Birds Eye view of the entire city from its roof top and where you can see the many modern, taller (some majestic) fabulous examples of architecture at its best. They really have been inventive with their designs.
Definitely worth a weekend visit. I enjoyed my exploration of the city’s best spots and would recommend it for a visit.
Day 12 - 254km to Pristina, Kosovo
More mountain and hill riding today as I head up to Kosovo. Most people tend to travel to Prizen, however, I wanted to see Europe’s newest capital, Pristina.
If you travel for picturesque aesthetics, then Pristina won’t be your bag. It is however a bit of a blank canvas to explore.
Mother Theresa is widely celebrated here with the main Boulevard named after her. She was born to Albanian parents and is widely celebrated here by Christians and Muslims alike. During the segregation and repression of Slobodan Milosevic in the 1990’s, it was the Mother Theresa Society who provided healthcare, food and clinics to marginalised Albanians.
Mother Theresa Cathedral was consecrated in 2017 after a decade of construction and worth a visit. The National Library, once hailed as one of the worlds ugliest of buildings, is actually a great example of brutalist architecture with its 99 external domes. Love it or hate it, it is a must see.
Along Mother Theresa Boulevard there are several squares - quite plain, but there are numerous interesting cafes and shops to explore.
Quite bizarrely is the statute of US President Bill Clinton! It is in recognition of his galvanising NATO forces in 1999 to intervene against Serbian forces.
I met 2 x American Mormon missionary’s in town, who invited me to an open evening at the local chapel. Instead, I asked what time their regular service was tomorrow.
I enjoyed scouting around Pristina however I’m not sure I would recommend it for a short break.
Day 13 - 91km ride to Skopje, North Macedonia
Before I headed off to Skopje, I attended the church service, which was lovely. It was interesting that they also had an English interpreter, who interpreted as the clergy were speaking. It was lovely to attend a church service without it being a funeral lately!
Feeling refreshed and humbled, I headed off to North Macedonia.
The ride was quick and uneventful.
I had booked a hotel in the old town which did not disappoint. In fact, I found the statutes and buildings of Skopje to be magnificent and stunning. A little unkempt but nevertheless beautiful.
Small enough to walk everywhere, you can go from the Ottoman bazaar to huge neoclassical buildings and hugely surreal, massive statues. Much of the city was rebuilt by General Tito’s government after the devastating earthquake of 1963 and I must say, it has been brilliantly done.
Skopje is divided in two halves by the river Vardar. On the south side are most of the new buildings whilst the north side we have those old buildings that survived the earthquake and the bazaar.
The walk from the bazaar to the centre on Macedonian Square where you pass the most magnificent statue of Alexander the Great on his horse. One of many magnificent and majestic statutes around the city. They really are second to none!
Above the city is the Skopje Fortress which is free to explore and has panoramic views of the city.
I would highly recommend Skopje for a weekend trip, it really is a gem of a city to explore. The multitude of restaurants along the river bank are great for taking in the sights and people watching
Day 14 – 233km ride to Sofia, Bulgaria
Day 15
Day 16
Another excellent day riding but sadly my last for this trip. The next couple of days will be chores, but with time to explore Sofia too.
I checked into the Ramada by Wyndham in Sofia which to be quite frank, was like transporting myself back to the 1980’s!!! It really is quite dated but the price, which I thought was a bargain for 3 nights, turned out not to be such a bargain after all.
The next couple of days were spent washing manky clothes and repacking the panniers, as well as a visit to Royal Enfield to have Marj fully serviced and ready for the next trip. Finally, on the final day, the bike went into a storage container until my next trip.
In-between chores, I also found time to explore Sofia. I must say I wasn’t overly impressed, to say Sofia is one of Europe’s oldest Capital’s. There were some highlights though in St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral as well as the Serdica Archaeological Complex.
The Cathedral is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world with stunning gold-plated domes. Whilst I didn’t visit, it also has a magnificent museum in the crypt.
The Serdica Archaeological Complex is an open-air exhibition of Roman streets, ancient baths and basilicas – some date back as far as the 1st century.
Both are definitely the two highlights, for me.
Another highlight was a restaurant called ‘Happy’ – it is really popular and you have to queue. The food however is superb and widely varied from Ribs to Sushi. I enjoyed it so much, I ate there each of the three nights I was in Sofia.
Not sure that I would recommend Sofia for a short break. I do have to return later in the year to pick up Marj!
Day 17 – flight from Sofia to Chisinau, Moldova
Day 18
Early start this morning for my flight via Istanbul to Chisinau. I wanted to do Moldova on this trip, as it is out on a limb and not on a natural route.
I caught the bus from the airport to the city so I could feel and see the real Chisinau and it gave me time to feel, and experience, my surroundings without having to have my wits about me on the motorbike!
Chisinau, a former Soviet city in the Republic, has its fair share of brutalist architecture
but some pretty spectacular architecture too. Around the Parliament buildings, you find it hard to imagine Moldova is one of the poorest countries in Europe. Next door to the Parliament building, which was built in the 1800’s, is one of the most beautiful and spectacular Mosques I’ve ever seen, it really is a magnificent place of worship.
In a similar vein, is the Cathedral of the Nativity in Central Park. Built in 1830 after the Russian defeat of the Ottomans and turned into an Exhibition Centre by the Russians. It is today again a place of worship for the Moldavian Orthodox faith. Its interior is a splendour of gold leaf and religious statues, many dedicated to the Virgin Mary. I found it to be quite humbling.
The other impressive thing about Chisinau, is the huge amount of green spaces and parks – very well maintained and quite beautiful for Chisinau residents to enjoy. They even have their very own Victory Arch, similar to the Arc De Triumph in Paris (But not as large)
I really did enjoy my tour around Chisinau and although I probably won’t return, I am glad that I took the time to visit. It really was a pleasant couple of days
Day 19 - today was an early start for my flight home to Manchester via Zurich.
This truly was a fabulous trip visiting 13 Countries, many of which I was visiting for the first time. I experienced some fabulous riding especially in Montenegro and Serbia. The mountains, windy roads, hairpin bends and snow-covered terrain, made the riding really special. It is days like this, you don’t want them to end – it truly is exhilarating!
There were some real highlights in the cities that I visited and similarly there were some cities I found quite disappointing. Budapest, Tirane and Skopje blew me away, whilst Podgorica, was a huge disappointment after riding through some spectacular scenery in the countryside. I found the people warm and friendly on the whole, and the further I went south, away from Northern Europe, it became much cheaper - accommodation, food and fuel. My visit to meet and spend time with Tanja and Vovo, in the mountains of Montenegro, was wonderful where they made me feel so very welcome and fed me with so much food. The visit was a huge highlight for me with memories I’ll cherish.
I didn’t have one drop of rain the whole trip, which, is fantastic when you are on a motorbike!
The Balkan countries are definitely worth visiting, particularly if you like history, brutalist architecture and delving into modern history of the old USSR
My next trip is in July 2026, where I pick up Marg from Sofia and head through, Turkey, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Stay tuned…….
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